The frustrating sailing conditions prompts Sorin to make this affirmation in anger.
I burst into laughter! And it got me thinking of the wider picture. I realised that he was actually right.
Less than 3 days sailing north of Darwin we reach Asia at Saumlakki, Indonesia, a world apart from the place we left behind. Just mind blowing! A country of unseen natural splendour and cultural multiplicity, Indonesia’s national motto is ‘Unity in Diversity’. 17508 islands, multiple ethnicities, varied belief systems, 6000 dialects and numerous island based customs, some stranger than others!
For example, the Hindus of Bali welcome the New Year according the Balinese calendar, with the ritual of Nyepi. It is a day dedicated to prayer and meditation. The entire island of Bali comes to a complete standstill. Traffic stops. No plains. Shops shut. No soul on the street or beaches. As soon as the night comes, all lights are turned off. Hotels pull their curtains. Balinese believe that by remaining quiet they will trick the evil spirits into believing that the island is deserted so will not bother them for the rest of the year.
The unmatched kindness of people, their fine curiosity, their willingness to unconditionally help is not normal either, if we defined normality by the norm of the known reality of life.
The Indonesian culture is the most humane culture we came across in our sailing around the world. Humbling.
Where in the world would a visitor to the country jump on the back of the customs’ official scooter in order to be driven to the immigration office, and be sent back to the boat with a local culinary delicacy as a welcome gift? Where in the world would you be woken up every morning at 4am by a prayer blasting from the mosques’ potent speakers? Where in the world the shop keeper would insist you leave the store with a box of beers and bring the money the following day? Where in the world the ocean is mistaken with the rubbish bin? Where in the world the taxi driver would decide not to charge for the fare, after initially quoting a too high price that you negotiated down? Where in the word family members of different religions cohabit happily under the same roof? Where in the world you pay less than a pound for several bags of fresh fruit and veggies? Where in the world everyone smiles and children actively listen to an adult speaking? These things don’t add up in our western mind.
This new surrounding reality was mind puzzling. After several people interactions we think we put some of the puzzle pieces together, but not all!
Since our stay in Indonesia is limited to 2 months in which we had to cover a 1000nm from east to west and visit places of interest along the way, completing the puzzle remains work in progress.
Same with understanding the sailing conditions around the Indonesian islands. Mainly understanding tides and currents running along the southern chain of the Indonesian Islands. We now have a vague idea, but the element of random was not fully eliminated. The cherry on the cake was when sailing around Komodo National Park’s Islands, we were facing forward, but going backwards at up to 2 knots. The tide in theory was meant to be with us…Making a 180 degree turn we reached speeds over ground of up to 11 knots! Sea states that we never came across before, unlit fishing devices and fishing boats everywhere, varying winds in strength and direction from one minute to the other and the deepest and treacherous anchorages ever. All new to us. Every day is a school day! Luckely we are keen learners 🤣
Sailing Indonesia is tough and we are paying the price for it. However, we both agree that it is a price worth paying!