Desert landscape and crystal clear waters

The time spent in the Canaries so far felt like a holiday – relaxation, discovery, enjoyment. 

Making sure the ‘high five’ is not forgotten!
Mad skies in Arrecife

After leaving the marina in Arrecife, we headed south to Playa Papagaya (a number of small sandy beaches that attract some naturists) where we anchored for three nights. We swam, sunbathe and went on a day trip ashore. We discovered the location of the Museo Atlantico – an underwater museum exhibiting ten sculptures of the British artist Jackson Taylor. This would have been interesting to visit but since the sculptures were on the sea bed (at a depth of twelve metres) I was not compelled enough to take scuba diving at a very dear price. 

Statue similar to the underwater ones in Rubicon
Playa Papagaya and at the horizon
Exploring the surroundings on foot

The island has many attractions – caves, volcanoes, salinas, Timanfaya National Park, vineyards, etc. We had visited some of the Canary Islands before and this time we want to make the most of our proximity to the water. The overall dryness of the scenery is slightly off putting for me, but Sorin quite enjoys it…

Our newly made friends (a delightful French family with two young boys and Nelson, the cat) joined the anchorage in Playa Papagaya for the last evening. Every year they spend six months at sea and six months on land – probably best combination to remain ‘grounded’! They are a bunch of special people, and so we are very grateful to have crossed paths.

Sorin with our newly made friends

The highlight of our stay in Playa Papagaya was Sorin harpooning his first fish on our last day. More and varied captures followed. 

Sorin with his first capture
More captures in the clear waters of Isla de Lobos

After managing to lift the anchor (tangled around and under volcanic boulders) by numerous manoeuvres under Sorin’s skilful instruction (from the water where he could see the anchor chain) we headed to Rubicon – touristy lively place with a posh marina and lots of bars and restaurants. Live music everywhere. 

Part of the 5 star Volcan Resort in Rubicon, Lanzarote
Mehalah at anchor in Rubicon Bay

After provisioning, we headed south-east to the Isle of Lobos, a nature reserve for over 30 years – largely unspoiled, here life abounds and the surrounding waters are perfect for snorkelling and diving. The island is named after the sea wolfs who once lived here.

Ready for snorkelling in Lobos Island
Plumage de Verano – bird on Lobos Island disguised by the plumage, so can hardly be distinguished amongst volcanic rocks
One of the lagoons of Lobos Island
Long walk on the Natural Reserve of Lobos Island

We had a fantastic time – my first snorkelling experience of the trip, canoeing to the nearby lagoons, long walk in the natural reserve and many scrumptious captures with the spear gun. Great stay overall!

The winds were due to pick up, so we sailed south on the east coast of Fuerteventura to drop the hook in a better protected anchorage – this was  Puerto de Rosario, in the capital of Fuerteventura. 

Mehalah at anchor in Puerto de Rosario

Fuerteventura is the second largest island in the archipelago. We sailed along its vast deserted beaches and high dunes of white sand that gives the island a unique sense of solitude. 

Kilometres of deserted beaches on the East Coast of Fuerteventura

We did not have the chance to see much yet, but overall, the island seems to be more colourful than the neighbouring Lanzarote – in architecture and in its volcanoes – surreal piles of exotic spices: saffron, chilli and coriander!

Once the strong winds settle we will continue our sail south and then west to Gran Canaria.

12 thoughts on “Desert landscape and crystal clear waters”

  1. Wonderful description. Must be so good to see the islands from the sea, and be able to visit the more deserted parts of the islands.
    Nice anchorages, I assume it is free?

    1. Hi Jonathan, it is great indeed. We do things and see places that are inaccessible on a normal holiday or if accessible very costly! Anchorages are free, but hard to find. And good ones (protected from the ocean swell) even harder to find! They are building marinas in most places and in the bays with marinas unchorage becomes forbidden! Money making machines. But the marinas are the least expensive we experienced so far, luckily!
      Enjoy your cruising and keep us posted.

  2. I know nothing about the Canaries but your description was great and loved your photos. Looking forward to the next i instalment…stay safe x

    1. Hi Cath. I hear La Palma is the best (greenest) and it would suit your thirst for adventure and outdoor activities. Check it out. Enjoy your travels!

  3. Hi Ana,
    Great to catch up with your travels, the scenery looks wonderful!

    Very jealous! Liked the interesting snorkel? Is that a new style?

    1. Hi Mike! Good to hear from you and hope all goes well. I am not at my best under water and this Decathon snorkel makes it easier to breath properly:)

  4. Super le commentaire et les photos. On vous apprécie beaucoup, vous avez le sens des réalités et du bon. Nous sommes contents d’a Croisé votre chemin et nous espérons le recroiser encore plusieurs fois.
    À bientôt
    Daniel, Virginie, Félix, Charli et Nelson

    1. Daniel, Felix, Virgi et Charli, quel plaisir de vous avoir conu! On est a Porto Rosario et on espere de vous revoir en chemin au Tenerife ou Sorin va rencontrer ses parents bientot.

  5. O placere sa citesc despre toate locurile astea pe langa care am trecut dar la distanta impusa de marimea navelor pe care navig eu.
    Am fost binecuvantat de cateva ori sa fiu eu “exploratorul” vizitand locuri de genul acesta. De fiecare data au meritat efortul.
    Lectura continua, m-am prins care este ordinea blogurilor si acum calatoresc alaturi de voi. Va ajung curand din urma…

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